Sunday, April 8, 2018

Waterhole Canyon - 4/3/18

Waterhole Canyon Slot

Waterhole Canyon from Above

Highway 89 Bridge over Slot

Waterhole Canyon Trailhead
 Seven hikers were on our way through Page, Arizona and needed a little break from the driving. We stopped at the Navajo Tribal Ranger Station office on Coppermine Road to buy a $12 permit to hike a little slot canyon two miles south of Horseshoe Bend, which is around 2 miles south of Page on Highway 89. After finding the trailhead directly off the pavement, we followed the trail markers down to drop into the canyon. At first, we found a great place for a photo of the Highway 89 bridge. Then, we worked our way up and around to the trail drop and began hiking up the slot in the sand.

Hiking to the Slot Drop
 The slot canyon begins pretty wide then quickly narrows. The walls are high enough that you usually cannot climb out of the slot.

Starting up the Slot

Heading into the Narrows
 The seven hikers excitedly weaved in and out of the narrow turns of the slot when a couple of other hikers told us that there was a rattlesnake in the canyon narrows not too far ahead. As we scrambled, we were on the lookout! The snake was curled against the wall in a narrow dark section of the slot and seemed defensive yet quiet. Maybe he had fallen into the slot and didn't know how to get out. There certainly wasn't anywhere for him to go from there without snaking his way up the walls. Hmm. Anyway, we carefully scooted past him and went on our way.

Dark Narrows
A ladder came next. It was more like two ladders bolted together. At the top, there was a precarious long step to the next level. We helped each other up.

Rita demonstrates the Ladder

Small Rattler at Wrong Place - Oops!
The next obstacle was a climb out of the narrows into the last level of the canyon. It was about a seven foot chimney situation. The canyon opened out at the top end and everyone (except me) turned around to go back the way they came. I decided to climb out where there were cairns and take the overland trail back along the top of the slot. The trail was easy to follow with a few cairns and footsteps in the sand. Some of the other hikers continued down to take a look at the dry fall under the bridge. This was a fun little diversion at 2.5 miles.

Top of the Narrows

Canyon opening near Top

Overland Trail




Bears Ears National Monument Excursion Overview - April/3 thru 7/2018

Bears Ears Buttes from Highway 261 (8908' & 9058')

Seven Kivas in Road Canyon

Road Trip on Highway 89 and over Glen Canyon Dam to Page, AZ

Brief Visit to Horseshoe Bend
 Bears Ears National Monument was established in the southeast corner of Utah at the end of 2016 but the treasures that it protects have been there for millions of years. From dinosaur fossils to relatively young ruins, petroglyphs and artifacts of the anasazi (or ancient ones), Bears Ears holds a vast amount. Perhaps this area has flown under the radar for so long because its precious riches are not seen until you dive into the beautiful canyons that are cut invisibly into the "flat" terrain of sagebrush and salt bushes topped with an array of cedar, junipers and pinyon pines. Further increasing the low visitation is the relative inaccessibility of the park. The best ruins and petroglyphs (not to mention the dinosaur fossils) are only reached by high clearance vehicles and rugged hikers on a mission.

Pottery Shards and Corn Cob
 Fifteen hikers from Las Vegas, (six of whom are members of the Around the Bend Friends), made the road trip to start the week in Blanding, Utah. On the way, seven of the fifteen hikers stopped for a nice visit to Waterhole Canyon and to view Horseshoe Bend just outside of Page, Arizona.

Moon House Ruins

Blanding, Utah
 The next day, we drove out Highway 95 from Blanding and turned south on Highway 261. A left turn put us on a dirt road called Cigarette Springs Road. Here, we did our longest hike of 8.5 miles in Road Canyon taking in Fallen Roof Ruins and Seven Kivas. The next day, it was Moon House Ruins on Snow Flats Road for which we had previously acquired permits. In the afternoon, four of us took a short hike to the Butler Wash Ruins. The following day was dubbed "Petroglyph Day!" We drove down to Bluff and found the Lower Butler Wash Road.

Small Section of Procession Panel
 A few miles out the road took us to the Procession Panel hike within the 80 mile sandstone Comb. On the way back, we took in the equally impressive Wolfman Petroglyph Panel and the Sand Island Petroglyph Panel. That afternoon, we ate at the Twin Rocks Cafe in Bluff.

Large Warrior within Wolfman Panel

Lower Butler Wash Road
 The last day, we did a short rewarding hike to the House on Fire Ruins and left to go back to Las Vegas. Some of us chose the return route that led back down Highway 261 to the always impressive Moki Dugway. Also on the agenda for the road trip back was Monument Valley and an unusual driving desert rainstorm which we thankfully managed to drive safely through. The fifteen rugged hikers had a fantastic time led by Keith and Beth Lane whose hiking group is called LOVE. Although there is so much more to see, we did get to see a lot of Bears Ears National Monument's major ruins and rock art. There's definitely enough still there for more trips! Our distance stats added up to approximately 25 miles. (More LOVE, please!)

In the following entries, I will cover each hike in the order it was done as follows:
Waterholes Canyon
Road Canyon (Falling Roof Ruin and Seven Kivas)
Moonhouse Ruin
Butler Wash Ruin
Procession Panel
Wolfman Panel
Sand Island Panel
House on Fire Ruin

Man in Sand Island Panel

Late Lunch in Bluff

Road Trip Home - Moki Dugway, Monument Valley and a Desert Rainstorm


Sunday, April 1, 2018

North Bowl Back Loop - 3/31/18

Inch Worm Arch

Northwest Corner of North Bowl of Fire

Bear Paw Poppy Bloom

Bear Paw Poppies
 The North and South Bowls of Fire are another example (like the Keystone Thrust) of older rock and younger rock mixing it up with fault movement. Below is an explanation from the geology book, *Geologic Tours in the Las Vegas Area (Expanded Edition with GPS Coordinates), Nevada Bureau of Mines and Geology Special Publication 16, University of Nevada, Reno, Mackay School of Earth Sciences, 2008, Bear Printing, Sparks, NV; page 72.
    *The Bowl of Fire has formed in the heart of an anticline - an up-arched fold that exposes older rocks at its core. The rocks in the core of the Bowl of Fire anticline are Aztec Sandstone (about 180 million years old). The younger rocks on the flanks include various members of the Horse Spring Formation (17 to about 12.5 million years old) that lie unconformably on and in fault contact with the Aztec Sandstone. The dark rocks in foreground, on each side of the gap leading into the bowl, are the Rainbow Gardens Member of the Horse Spring Formation.

Junction of Overland to Main Wash
 Today's hike explored into the northwest corner of the North Bowl of Fire where arches, slots and cracks to scramble exist. The only way to get there is to make the long hike up through the main wash that runs down between the North and South Bowls.

Hiking up Main Wash
 But first, eight club members took a side trip up into the Pinto Valley Wash. The bear paw poppies are in bloom and, oh, what a display! They were growing in many clumps up on the hill to the left as soon as you dropped down into the wash on the trail.

One Significant Dry Fall in Main Wash

Best guess is Preuss' Milkvetch (Astragalus preussii var. preussii)
 After viewing the gorgeous yellow flowers that only grow in the Lake Mead NRA, we crossed back over Northshore Road MM 18 and headed in the opposite direction overland straight to the main wash outlet from North Bowl of Fire. We wasted no time. Up the wash, at full speed through the sandy gravel.  Choosing all the shortcut routes we could find in the wiggles of the wash. (There was one left fork that we used at a big red rock outcropping.) Fast, fast, fast. Finally, ... finally, we came to the first and only significant dry fall scramble in the main wash and we clamored up. After this, the wash became more colorful. Flowers were blooming here as well. Beavertail cacti, brittlebush, desert marigolds, sundrops, and the occasional globemallow.

Nearing the Overland Juncture
 When we reached a familiar juncture that we have used while hiking the North Bowl exit, we turned up the small wash. (The overland trail went up the hill at a sharp left. The main wash continued up veering left.)

Elephant Arch
 A short way up the small wash, we came to the Elephant Arch seen up on the hill to the left. This was our queue to scramble up the sandstone. We passed by the interesting arch and continued around behind it.

Climbing up past Elephant Arch

Traverse above Wash Below (Lovell Ridge Behind)
Our route followed along the cliff above the main wash below as seen in the second photo of this entry. Next, we dropped down into a side wash and headed up for a short way. We rounded a corner and came to a fabulous delicately standing arch that we named the Inch Worm Arch because of its shape on this side. We walked all around it and took photos then hiked up to our left and found another interesting arch in the shape of the Moon Lander, "Eagle." More photos. Continuing along the same direction, we climbed over a small rise. The group was spread out finding their own routes.

Weaving through Redstone
 Eventually, we veered right staying high until our route connected with a small wash/ridge at the same level. From here, we descended a hill and dropped through a small slot wash.

Lettie, Chuck S. & Kay Posing in Arches
 Not far from here, straight ahead, we came to a scramble crack to ascend. Inside the crack, there was a low-to-the-ground arch we named Sliding Board Arch. This nice scramble took us up to the high point where we had our break.

Moon Lander Arch

Staying High
 We were 4 miles into the hike and it was the first really warm day of spring. No one complained when we dropped into a shaded spot to sit. Nearby, there was a crack that led down to the wide exit of the North Bowl. Instead, we dropped in the opposite direction. This is a slot descent that, unfortunately, has a lot of brush in the top end. The brush is harmless and we pushed through. From there on, the slot is a very good scramble. We emptied out into the top end of the small North Bowl exit wash. A left turn started a journey down toward the Elephant Arch.

Dropping behind Rise to Right
 This is a nice small wash that sometimes has water hazards. But, today, there was only one water hazard that we easily went around. There was a tiny frog here!

Climbing a Scramble Crack
 After passing the Elephant Arch, we exited the small wash at the overland juncture. A trail led us up to the top terrain on the right side of the main wash.

Sliding Board Arch in Scramble Crack

View Back from Scramble Crack
 Once again, the leader pushed the pedal to the metal and off we went. The top terrain is easily negotiated but the legs were tired and it was warm. When the route dropped back into the main wash for the last two miles of sandy gravel and more desert terrain, the pace did not slow. We each managed as best we could and there were seven relieved hikers when we reached the cars. The eighth? He could probably go another five miles! This hike could be compared to one of Brian's long Valley of Fire hikes! Good but hard paced!

8 miles; 750 feet elevation gain; 4.25 hours (Stats not counting Bear Paw Poppy excursion.)

Resting in the Shade

Down climb through Slot

Heading back out the Main Wash