Friday, November 15, 2019

Upper Paria Canyon & The Nautilus Rock (Paria Canyon-Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness) - 11/10/19

Upper Paria Canyon  (Part I of 11/10/19)

Paria Canyon near Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness Boundary

Paria Canyon

Trailhead Sign

Campground Sign at Trailhead
 Excited about the week ahead, Rita and I drove up to Kanab a day early. We were anxious to do a few hikes that were not on the schedule. We left early from Las Vegas and arrived in Kanab about 3 hours later. Forty more miles east on SR 89, we turned right at the Paria Contact Station and veered left onto the Whitehouse Trailhead Road. This is a well maintained dirt road that leads to the Whitehouse Campground and Trailhead, complete with restrooms. The road has two "tiled" wash crossings before you reach the end. We paid our parking permit fee at the station and said hello to a small group of guys who had just finished their 20 mile hike from Wire Pass. Then we set out for our little out and back hike along the rim of Upper Paria Canyon.

Trail down by River
 To start the hike, we followed the trail that drops toward the Paria River from the restrooms. It turns left and starts along the river shoreline. Soon, the trail climbs up onto the bench above the river's east side.

Paria River Upstream
 The trail climbs higher and higher above the canyon floor. It follows the shape of the curvy rim in and out of the alcoves and washes. Most of the time, the trail is a safe distance from the edge of the increasing height of the cliffs.

White Rock Outcrop

Old Fencing
Safe until ... around 2 miles down ... the trail gets very close the the rim of very high cliffs. We slowed our pace and made sure of our steps. A fall would be fatal. Then the trail takes a climb up through a short small wash and up to an overlook. Past that, the trail circled around to an awaiting cairn. We wondered if this must be the wilderness boundary marker. At any rate, we were ready to turn around. The views of the canyon below had been spectacular from the beginning and we had other fish to fry that day. So, we started back and about a mile later, we passed the first 2 hikers we had seen on the trail. We spoke and moved on.

Trail gets Higher
There was a lot of evidence of horseback riders on the trail, too. We think that the horses were led around the cliff edge trail section.

Kay at Wilderness Boundary Cairn
 Our route back looped as we neared the campground. We followed a trail that led higher up the hill and dropped down through some campsites that were located at the base of large white sandstone hills.

Cliff Edge Trail

Desert & Cliffs
These hills must be the "Whitehouse." It looked like a really nice place to camp. The trailhead signs said that it costs $5 per night. Parking fees for us were $6 each! Hmm. Anyway, it is a nice place and an interesting trail along the beautiful Paria Canyon. We jumped back in the car and drove back up the road to the first wash we came to ... or the second wash from SR 89.

Upper Paria Canyon Trail: ~4 miles; 400 feet elevation gain; 2 hours; average moving speed 2 mph

See Part II below.

Hiking back up Canyon Rim

Sand Hiking

Campground at Whitehouse




The Nautilus Rock (Part II of 11/10/19)

The Gray Giant ... Rock ... at Beginning of Wash

Rita inside the Nautilus Rock

Very Old Corral next to Road

Gray Giant to left of Wash
 We parked at this wash on the south side and jumped out into the sand. (Sand would be the common denominator this week.) Not too far up the wash, we turned left and climbed the bank up to the base of The Gray Giant. Even though the color gray is a bit unusual, the rock is still sandstone. ScienceDaily.com tells us that "Most sandstone is composed of quartz and/or feldspar because these are the most common minerals in the earth's crust. Like sand, sandstone may be any color, but the most common colors are tan, brown, yellow, red, gray and white." We each climbed up on the gray rock and got photos with the red squiggly peak of a sandstone bench poking up behind us.

Nautilus Rock on Right
 We dropped down into the wash again. We were past the fencing across the wash. Then we began hiking a short distance up the medium sized wash ... in the sand.

Hiking inside Nautilus Rock
 We noted a skinny spire sticking up from the ridge on the right. Then soon, we were passing another gray sandstone outcropping.

Above Nautilus

Second View above Nautilus
This is the Nautilus rock on the right of the wash. We spent a few minutes exploring the rock. We could hike up through the middle of it and climb on the rocks on either side of the crack. It was difficult to get a great photo of the shell-like crack but the experience was a lot of fun. Photo-ed out, we started back down the wash, got in the car and drove back to Kanab. I would like to give a shout out to the Holiday Inn Express hotel in Kanab! Fantastic people there and the beds were soooo comfortable! ... Good breakfasts, too!

Nautilus: 1 mile; 125 feet elevation gain; 45 minutes; average moving speed 1.7 mph

Returning back through Fencing

2nd Road Wash (View S to N) on Whitehouse Trailhead Road

Hoodoos next to Road




Friday, November 8, 2019

Cave Canyon / Three Amigos / Overlook / The Muffins - 11/7/19

View Back through Cave Canyon Entrance

Las Vegas Cairn Overlook

Hiking past the Muffins

Climbing into Cave Canyon
The North Blue Diamond Hill is the result of pressure coming from the east in the form of the Bird Spring Thrust. Thus, we have a hill whose high points are at the top of the cliffs on the east side with slope moving toward the west. Within the North Blue Diamond Hill, three major canyons cut the slope flowing from east to west (Skull, Cave, and Echo). These canyons and the fingers between and outside lie within the Red Rock Canyon NCA. The limestone that caps this ridge are from the Kaibab Formation.

"Because of the westward tilt of these strata, one encounters successively younger rocks to the west. For example, the rocks in the vicinity of the gypsum mine are Permian (290 to 248 millions years old); the Aztec Sandstone exposed in the escarpment to the west beyond the gap is Jurassic, at least 100 million years younger."
*Geologic Tours in the Las Vegas Area (Expanded Edition with GPS Coordinates), Nevada Bureau of Mines and Geology Special Publication 16, University of Nevada, Reno, Mackay School of Earth Sciences, 2008, Bear Printing, Sparks, NV;    page 23.
The 3rd Class Dry Fall
This information explains why the Blue Diamond Hill is so full of Pre-Cambrian sea bed fossils. Small shells, sponges and other small creatures have left impressions in the hardened muck.

Cave Canyon
I find new fossils every time I hike the canyons and fingers on the Hill. They are usually right under my feet or eye level on a rock. They are our window into the ancient past.

Hiking in Cave Canyon

Arriving near Fork
With daylight savings time four days past, thirteen hikers arrived at the Cowboy Trails Trailhead on SR 159 at an early hour. Happily, the sun had come up over the North Blue Diamond Hill and we were warm. There were still a lot of parking spaces in the dirt lot when we set off toward the newly reno-ed Upper Corral and chop house. We dropped down behind the building and started up into the canyon. Cave Canyon is the canyon that forks to the left. There is a steep trail on the right side of the canyon that tops off at a small cave alcove covered with graffiti. (Always there.) Then the trail dips over the wash and climbs up to the first 3rd class obstacle; a dry fall that hasn't changed in all the 12 years I have been hiking here. One by one, the group settled on their lefts and rights and climbed up with helping hands when needed. It is a fun climb and we had spotters on the bottom and top.

Climbing Last Dry Fall
After this initial "test," we scrambled our way up through the wash. It is a good workout. The canyon is much the same as it always is year in and year out except for one particular place where a large boulder sits in the middle of the wash.

At the Boneshaker Sign
I guess the past year had given so much rain that the brush covered over the usual routes. We followed the suggestion of previous hikers and climbed up the wall on the right side and sidled around the mess. Fun!!

Three Amigos Trail above Mystery Woman Canyon

Three Amigos Trail
Our scramble continued up to the canyon fork. We took the Left Fork and the wash became more brushy. Nevertheless, the landmarks were there and we made it up to the second of the 3rd class scrambles. Well, there is a choice here. There is a 2nd class, a 2.5 class, and a 3rd class scramble as seen in the third photo above. Your choice! Following that, there is just a little bit of wash remaining before you T into the SARS Trail. We turned left and hiked up to the Boneshaker sign. A more direct route to the overlook would be to take the Radio Tower Trail that runs straight up the hill. We dropped just 30-40 feet over the other side of the ridge and connected with the more wiggly trail called the Three Amigos Trail. It runs up along the rim of Mystery Woman Canyon. When this trail started giving us choices near the top of the hill, we bushwhacked straight up to the peak of the terrain and found our Cairn Overlook break spot; a high point of the North Blue Diamond Hill.

Cairn Overlook
Views from this high point are of the entire valley of Las Vegas! It was a somewhat hazy day today but the unobstructed view was still there. We sat for a friendly break.

Rim Trail
After our respite, we connected with the trail below us called the Rim Trail. This trail runs above the cliffs of Blue Diamond Hill that were created by the aforementioned Bird Spring Thrust.

Original Las Vegas Overlook

Mules & Riders
We were now hiking toward the Calico Hills in the distance so the main front view was very colorful! This picturesque trail led us down to the original Las Vegas Overlook as seen in the photo above. When we turned to continue down the hill, we saw five mule and riders "coming over the pass!" We hurried to get to the bottom of the hill before meeting the train. We stepped aside and joked with them as they passed. Good time! We, then, finished climbing the hill and connected with the second trail to the right, a vague connection. This is the Muffins Trail that circles around the higher Muffins ridge. Just a nice rest before tackling the descent. As we descended to the huge Muffin rocks, we saw a small group of younger hikers that were relaxing on one of the boulders. Our stay was short with "Hi, how are you?," a couple of photos and a water pause. Next, the big dive down the scenic Muffins Trail that is nicknamed "Bomb Voyage" by the large Las Vegas mountain biking community.

Arriving at the Muffins
Our diagonal descent down the side of the steep hill went smoothly and decently rapid. Care must be taken on several parts of the trail due to slippery scree or large rock steps.

Leaving the Muffins
The group stayed together talking the whole way. No surprises. And, finally, we were connecting with the Skull Canyon Trail. This trail finished the descent down to cross the mouth of the large neighboring canyon.

Descending the Muffins Trail

View from Muffins Trail
Between here and the corral, we moved along rapidly with most of our remaining strength. The horses and mules in the corral were mostly bunched together under the canopy of shade provided! Seriously, it wasn't that hot! Anyway, we moved on to pass by Jackson, the adopted wild burro who appeared so small in his enclosure after seeing the horses and mules in their corral. He was silently watching us. (Sometimes he is quite vocal!) What a beautiful day! Great workout and scenic hike!

7.5 miles; 1400 feet elevation gain; 4.25 hours; average moving speed 1.7 mph

Crossing the bottom of Skull Canyon

Joshua Trees line the Trail to the Corral

Almost back to the Trailhead