Fern Canyon - 3/5/20

Fern Canyon

Top of Fern Canyon Waterfall

The Wilson Homestead Ruins

Pine Creek Trail

Named after the Giant Chain Ferns that flourish large within its walls, Fern Canyon was flowing with water as we picked our way up among the boulders. These ferns spotted the canyon making the desert appear lush.

The largest fern native to North America, giant chain fern is frequently found in moist woodlands along the West Coast. It thrives next to streams and in moist bogs. And, it doesn't tolerate frost. ~ Better Homes & Gardens
GENUS NAME Woodwardia fimbriata
LIGHT Part Sun Shade
PLANT TYPE Perennial
HEIGHT 3 to 8 feet 8 to 20 feet
WIDTH To 4 feet wide

Hiking Pine Creek Trail toward Fern Canyon

We began with fifteen hikers but one dropped out early after he realized that the hike would take longer than he thought. Yes, this hike always takes a while!

Hiking Access Trail to Fern Canyon

Parking at the Pine Creek Trailhead, we started down the main Pine Creek Trail and took a short break at the old Wilson Homestead ruins. On the way, we passed a bevy of brand new trail signs. Kudos to whoever is putting them up. (BLM?, Interpretive Society?, Friends of RR?) They are long awaited!

Wall of Fern Canyon

Stepping across Stream

From the house foundation, we headed out the trail that swings out toward the embankment on the right side of the wide canyon area. The trail took us around and down a hill then into a thicket of small trees to the right. This path took us up the embankment and rounded a large boulder. On the boulder's backside, a trail continued going into Fern Canyon which lies on the north side of Mescalito Peak (aka Little Redhead). This peak was named after:
      A spineless, dome-shaped cactus (Lophophora williamsii) native to Mexico and the southwest United States, having buttonlike tubercles that contain the hallucinogen mescaline and are traditionally used in rituals by certain Native American peoples. Also called mescal. ~ The Free Dictionary

Hugging the Wall

Regrettably, I chose to take the higher trail after the nearby fork ... just to see what happened. I will take the lower fork from here on out! We ended up dropping into the canyon too soon putting us into a brushy mess. Messy for me ... a helluva lot of fun for several of the hikers behind me!

Trail along Wall

With the water flowing, it took us a few minutes before I was able to find anything familiar. With the help of a few hikers that had taken a better route, we got back on track in due time and proceeded to scramble from here to there and there to here.

Steep Slanted Rock Climb

Jacob's Ladder Rock

Occasionally, we found cairns that would help us with decisions. But, the main rule of thumb in Fern Canyon is "if one way doesn't work to move forward, try another way!" There are sometimes two choices that work well and sometimes finding one choice is difficult! It all depends on your scrambling abilities! In fact, Fern Canyon is where I learned how to scramble way back in 2008! Between Fern Canyon, Terrace Canyon, Oak Creek Canyon and Red Cap, there is plenty there to learn the moves and gain the confidence. To begin the hike up canyon, getting to the left wall is a good start. Much of the first part of the scramble goes along this wall. Some of the water flows beautifully here.

Difficult Step Up on Smooth Surface

With the water flow, we found ourselves doing Cirque de Soleil type moves across the submerged rocks. Pique balance was required in a couple of places. Happy to say that no one got wet!

Finally on the Slab

A steep slanted rock appeared from the wall trail. Up we went. Next, we had to make the up and around climb past a very large bouldered section. There is a rabbit hole route here that is easier to use going down. We took the climb up the hill and over the difficult scramble at the top.

From Fern Canyon to Fern Canyon Overlook

Fern Canyon Waterfall Flowing

Back down in the wash, we saw the "black bear" landmark and scurried up another slanted rock. Through the brush and over rocks some more, then, finally, we found Jacob's Ladder. This is a landmark found around the hidden left side of a large boulder with built in steps to climb onto the top of the rock. Just after this, there is a climb up onto a flat smoothed and slanted sandstone rock. This is a difficult scramble due to the absence of handholds. Stronger scramblers manage but smaller scramblers can use a rabbit hole at the back of the rock. I used it for the first time and managed to gain the rock by myself. There were other times that I needed a boost by the hiker behind me. Thanks for the push!

Top of Fern Canyon Waterfall from Above

A little more brushy stuff and we found the "slab" landmark on the right side of the canyon. Up the center crack and along to the head knocker. The next scramble pointed us to the left side of the canyon again and we scrambled up the dry wash.

Round the Exposed Corner

The left wall was very familiar looking and Fern Canyon Overlook could be seen way above us. We were almost there. In fact, there appeared the waterfall! More than a trickle but less than a flow.

Dropping to Top Pool

Snack Break at Top Pool

We immediately started the vertical scramble to the top of the waterfall found on the right side. Take the second opportunity to walk around the rock next to you on the left and find your way to the pool area as seen in the photo to the left. There is some exposure here so you may want to skip this part. Be careful! Here, we took our well-deserved break. It was an amazingly beautiful day! When we finally started down, we took it slow and easy. One word of warning for new desert hikers: Always check to see where you are placing your hands before you place your hands! There may be a long slinky critter residing on the rock. It doesn't happen often but it happens!

Dismounting the Slab

Retracing our steps was a little easier than the route up even though we took a couple of different paths and rocks ... for variety.

That Smooth Slippery Surface

Plus, gravity always helps as you descend! Just be sure that you stay in control. Sprained ankles and knees can happen when the speed creeps up.

Down Climb into Marshy Muck of Dry Leaves

Down the Slant to the "Black Bear"

Occasionally, we stopped to make sure that the whole line of fourteen hikers had caught up. At one of these stops, we watched rock climbers up on the wall. I believe this wall is named "Dark Shadows" with an inverted corner. We had no problem finding the lower trail emerging from the canyon and we followed it back to round the large boulder and drop into the main wide canyon. Since it was warm here, we maintained a steady pace all the way back to the cars. Even with the confusing routes, this canyon is always a winner. It's beautiful back there!

5 miles; 850 feet elevation gain; 4.25 hours

"Hold Still! There's not much light!"

Tip-Toeing across the Rocks

Trail back to Main Pine Creek Canyon