Zabriskie Loop (Death Valley NP) - 3/2/23

Manly Beacon from Golden Canyon

Red Cathedral from Golden Canyon

Telescope Peak (far L) and the Panamint Range from Zabriskie Loop Trailhead

Beautiful start of the Zabriskie Loop Hike

This hike begins at Zabriskie Point off of California SR 190. Seventeen hikers made their way there from Las Vegas and Henderson, Nevada in a 2-2.5 hour drive. We were all amazed at the snow covered mountains we passed on our way down SR 190 passing into the Death Valley National Park. It is truly an odd year for weather! We also watched the temperature gauge waiting and waiting for the warmer temps to appear. It wasn't until we were almost to the trailhead that the temps reached the promised 52° mark. We pulled into the Zabriskie Point parking lot just before 9am and waited for everyone to arrive. Did you know that Zabriskie Point is named for a movie that was partially filmed here in 1970? It was panned by most critics but led a second life as a counter culture success! Hmm. But the cinematography was acclaimed along with the direction and musical score. During past hikes here, we have seen commercials and photo shoots being done at this location, as well.

Gower Gulch

Rita heads into the Gower Gulch Narrows

A little bit of Scrambling

Ralph and Bruce emerge from the Narrows

Zabriskie Point is punctuated by Manly Beacon; a vertical triangular rock whose point rises roughly 200' above its base where we were hiking. The pluvial lake that runs through Death Valley also holds the name of Manly. William L. Manly has a very interesting and heroic life story and deserves the honors. 

     William Lewis Manly (April 6, 1820 – February 5, 1903) was an American pioneer of the mid-19th century. He was first a fur hunter, a guide of westward bound caravans, a seeker of gold, and then a farmer and writer in his later years.

     In 1849, at the age of twenty-nine, Manly joined the thousands of American Forty-niners traveling to California to participate in the Gold Rush. He began traveling overland from Wisconsin.

     South of present-day Provo, Utah, Manly joined other Forty-niners traveling to southern California. In December, these pioneers became lost in the Great Basin Desert, and entered Death Valley having followed an inaccurate map for three weeks. Their food supplies were almost exhausted, and the oxen pulling their wagons were dying of starvation. Manly and his associate John Haney Rogers trekked 250 miles on foot across the Mojave Desert to Rancho San Fernando near Los Angeles, California to scout an evacuation route for the families trapped in Death Valley. There, they procured food and horses from Mexican villagers and were able to save their party by leading them to Rancho San Francisco.*

*~Wikipedia

Picturesque Dry Fall Area at the bottom of Gower Gulch

Breezy Crossover

Snack Break at the Golden Canyon Trailhead

Seventeen Hikers starting up Golden Canyon

The views on this day were outstanding. The whole Panamint Range was covered with snow caps. In the middle of this range is the highest point that is called Telescope Peak. It rises up to 11, 331', the highest point in Death Valley. It also rises almost directly above Badwater Basin that has an elevation of -282'. We started the hike on a small hill that enabled us to see this grand view. The mining road we were on, led us down to Gower Gulch where we turned right and headed down toward the basin and what was, several times in ancient history, Manly Lake. The hikers were strong and we made quick time all day. We passed the white arroyos, the white peaks with brown crusted tops, and an adit to one of the mines in this area. 

Rita and Cheryl hike up the Golden Canyon mining Road

Hiking toward the Red Cathedral

Climbing up through the Rough Slot to Red Cathedral

Rita climbs up to Overlook

Next, we entered the narrows of Gower Gulch. There is a little bit of scrambling here that was easily done by the hikers this morning. Then we came to a screeching halt as the wash suddenly disappeared at a very high cliff dry fall. The trail sneakily turns up to the right and leads along the cliff next to the wash continuation that runs out toward dry Manly Lake. Photos were taken here and we entered the windy side of the hike. Until then, we were fairly sheltered from the harsh wind. But out in the "flats," as Mike likes to call them, the wind was strong and chilly. We hiked as fast as we could over to the Golden Canyon Trailhead parking lot where there was a full house of cars. We sat out of the wind and took our break. While we sat, the remaining seven hikers caught up with us after having been 25 minutes late for the start of the hike. Yep. It is longer than 2 hours from Henderson! We all found that out.

Trail down Ridge from Overlook

Seventeen Hikers below Manly Beacon

Hiking up the Trail to Manly Beacon's Base

View back from Trail

So, after the break, we all headed up Golden Canyon toward the Red Cathedral, a red sandstone wall that rises as a backdrop to the white arroyos. At the signed junction, we hiked up to the cathedral cliffs for a beautiful view. There were a few different routes taken on the way back to the junction where the group turned left to hike up to the base of Manly Beacon. The climb here is kind of challenging but the views from this section of the trail are like nothing you've ever seen before! All seventeen hikers made it up the hill taking several photos from the skinny trail then descended the other side into the badlands. They call this next section the Badlands Loop.

Arroyos of the Badlands Loop

Dropping down from the Manly Beacon Base

Badlands Loop view of Manly Beacon

Enjoying views of Beacon from Badlands Loop

If you watch the trail, you will be able to follow those that hiked before you. In other words, don't drift over to the right into the shallow wash. This route will take you back into Gower Gulch. Stay to the left when offered a choice and the trail will take you up and over the arroyos. Soon, you will be climbing up and up. Take in the incredible views of Manly Beacon and Red Cathedral. Then follow the very old mining road around the ridge tops and down to the original Gower Gulch turn. This time, turn left and start your return back to the trailhead. This is another good climb. It was a great day ... but, then, any day with a bunch of good friends is a good day!

Stats: 7.2 miles; 1350' gain; 3.5 hours

Manly Beacon and Red Cathedral

Seventeen Hikers at the Badlands Loop Overlook

Finishing the Loop at Gower Gulch and Mine Road

South Bowl of Fire - 2/28/23

Colors of the South Bowl of Fire

Overlook to Lake Mead

Mike takes a closer look at the Twisty Deep Slot

Fifteen Hikers crossing the Desert

Nestled between the Bitter Spring Valley, the Muddy Mountains and the Hamblin Bay Fault is the Bowl of Fire. The Bowl is divided into two large sections of Aztec Sandstone fun, the North Bowl and the South Bowl. The North Bowl of Fire is ruled by the Raven's Balcony hiking destination. There are various other places to visit there that include the North Bowl rabbit hole, Skeleton Hand, Kissing Aliens, Goblin Face and another Elephant Arch. The South Bowl of Fire is easier to hike and lower in elevation. Therefore, we imagine that the South Bowl is submissive to the grandeur of North Bowl. However, as fifteen hikers found out today, the South Bowl is a beautiful, colorful place with plenty of scrambles of its own. ... So many photos!

Dropping into the First Wash

Trail into the First Wash

After watching the Two Bighorns

Climbing up through the First Wash

View up the First Wash

We parked at the Northshore Road MM 18 trailhead. This trailhead is a very popular jumping off point at Lake Mead NRA. From here, people hike to Mt. Hamblin, Pinto Valley, North Bowl and South Bowl. Although sometimes the trailhead can get crowded, there was plenty of space this morning. We started out the trail to the west, a trail that was very vague when I started hiking here in 2008. Now, the trail is very clear and takes you around a small independent ridge and over to the cluster of redstone behind it. As we hiked, we could see the North Bowl of Fire in the distance to the north. Square-topped Murphy Peak rose high to the southwest when we dropped down to the South Bowl wash. Crossing the wash, we started up a trail that would take us across the desert terrain to the first wash inside South Bowl leading to the southwest.

Scrambling in the First Wash

View back in the First Wash

Climbing up the Hillside to the Right

Fun stuff!

At the top of the Hillside

As soon as we dipped over the edge of the berm, someone shouted that there were bighorns down below to the right. We stopped and admired them for a minute. Onward, we started climbing up the colorful wash. This wash has a few very nice scrambles and we all enjoyed the efforts as we headed up to the lizard / lion / turtle - headed rock at the top of the canyon. After we passed the wash scrambles, the route curved around to the right and up the hillside. We passed Heart Rock, and climbed all the way up to the top of the hill to view one canyon we could use as a descent. Deciding to not bypass the overlook area, we circled around to the left and were met with the view shown in the first photo.

Hiking around to the Overlook

Approaching the Overlook

Dropping into the Descent Canyon

Brenda leads down the Descent Canyon

Anniversary Narrow Peak above Dog Rock Wash

At the overlook, we talked about what landmarks were nearby. Next, we followed the trail down and around to the right to drop through a nice narrow canyon. At the bottom, we passed a really thick low arch and strolled into one of the South Bowl's main washes that flows parallel to the first wash. A turn to the left put us in a wash heading up toward Lovell Ridge. There used to be worn trails in this area, however, with so much recent rain, the cryptobiotic soil has grown well and we were hard up for finding where to hike among the little micro-tiny critters! Our next point of interest was Dogface. I think it looks like a dog but others in the group saw a Baboon. okay. Anyway, next we hiked on over to the famous South Bowl Elephant Arch where we took our break. While sitting there, John W. spied a bighorn way up on the Lovell Ridge. Good eyes!

The Animals we Saw!

Up onto Embankment

Heading into the Boulder Turn

Heading out of the Boulder Turn

Dropping into the next Colorful Wash

We crossed over to the north and travelled down a large main wash, curved around a boulder-filled corner to the outside area of South Bowl and dropped into the next shallow wash with a lot of colorful bedrock. Reaching a beautiful slot-fall, we turned up to the left. A trail crossed the desert terrain and we arrived at the second, and more gorgeous, slot-fall. Many photos later, we continued down to the bottom of the slot-fall and found that a water hole prevented us from seeing the slot-fall up close. We followed this wash out to the "main" entrance of the South Bowl and scrambled down the rocks. All that remained was the hike out that desert trail to the cars. What a great day! And, thanks to everyone for contributing more photos!

Stats: 5 miles; 760' gain; 4 hours

Curvy Slot in Colorful Wash

Hiking out from Twisty Deep Slot

Grand Entrance / Exit of South Bowl

Enjoying the Trail between South Bowl and Trailhead