Monday, December 23, 2019

White Domes & Fire Wave (Valley of Fire) - 12/22/19

Valley of Fire Colors

Fire Wave

Valley of Fire Colors

Starting the White Domes Trail
The Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada is a very colorful landscape of sandstone. The view across the park contains every color of sandstone imagined. Normally, since the area of southern Nevada is an arid environment, the colors are pastel shades and faded out during daylight hours under blue skies; still beautiful but best seen at sunrise and sunset. However, rare occasions when the park has been doused with rain and the skies are overcast, the sandstone colors burst with richness. Today was such a day! Seven hikers were there for the show! And, to our surprise and delight, the slots were dry - free of water from flooding! (Remember the Drop Slot we encountered only one and a half weeks ago?)

Descending to the Movie Set
Due to bad timing, the slots have been flooded for the past three or four years when we attempted to hike through. Today, it felt like a new hike! When we started out, though, we had no idea that this would be the case.

White Domes
With a quick look at the slot near the road (Wash #5) as we drove up White Domes Road, we felt assured that there was a possibility that the slots would at least be dry enough to tiptoe through.

Movie Set at White Domes

First Slot to East
We parked at the White Domes Trailhead and started up the sand dune next to the restrooms. As we crested the small hill, the colors jumped out at us! Wow! How beautiful! For some hikers in the group, this was their first trip to the park in a few years and it was awesome to hear the sounds of wonder! This view, however, was only the beginning. We took our photos and approached the somewhat treacherous steps. It behooves us to reiterate that sandstone rocks covered with sand or pebbles are very slippery. We descended the rock steps with an abundance of caution. One by one. 😬

Snaking through the Slots
Since it was still early, there were no other visitors around and we took our time feeling not rushed at all. Slowly, we made our way down to the old movie set at the bottom of the hill. Several stops were made for photos.😳

Orange
After taking in the movie set that had been built for the movie "The Professionals," we dropped into the base wash and turned left. Way up to our left, we noted that a fresh rock fall of yellow sandstone was piled safely on a high slab.

Fins

Hiking through Slot
We began our walk down through the rocky wash and quickly came to the first of three small slots. Peering around the corner, Yay!!!, it was dry. This was an excellent indication that we would be able to get through all the slots without problem. So surprised and so happy! 😃Slowly, we enjoyed the slot formation and the colors that kept changing around every corner. I couldn't get over the richness! The next obvious terrain change was the "Orange Section!" Very bright orange hues met us from the sand beneath our feet to the high walls on either side. (See the two photos above.) 😮

Slot East of Road
After the Orange Section, we came to another slot. Here, we had to bend sideways just to get through! Again, dry sand to walk on. 😉

Hikers in Pink and Yellow Slot
After hiking through more rocky wash and sand, we came to the paved road crossing named Wash #5. The park was barely awake yet so we only waited for one car to pass before crossing.

Climbing the Pink Slope

Pink and Yellow
Next, the wash presented the most beautiful small slot of the bunch. It is a narrow, curvy, pink and yellow slot. We enjoyed our trip through it then started looking up to our left. There is a sloped ramp that meets the sand. It is pink or mauve and appears before the sandstone turns to yellow. The route for our hike, today, climbs up this ramp to the top of the slope. We stopped once in a while to take in the incredible views behind us. (See the first and third photos of this entry.) Next, we found a relatively easy way to drop into the next wash and turned to the right to descend around the hill now on our left. As we circled down and around, more colors filled our eyes. 😶

Wash at Base of Wave Wall
As the big red "Rock of Gibraltar" appeared around the corner, we stepped up on the slope to the right and turned around. The Wave Wall was seen on the hill we had circled.

Hiking around Wave Wall
After viewing the Wave Wall, we turned around 180 degrees and began heading toward the Fire Wave. This formation is probably the most popular in the Valley of Fire and hikers were beginning to arrive and crowd around the striped rock outcrop.

Wave Wall

Taking a Break at Fire Wave
Luckily, we were able to get photos of the Fire Wave without any people. This is unusual! And, as soon as we finished, the Fire Wave was swarmed with visitors. We sat at a distance and had our break while enjoying the activity below.  😁Most visitors climbed to the top of the Fire Wave for photos of each other. Very friendly atmosphere. Marg dropped her tangerine down the rock and one of the visitors returned it. We got a good laugh out of that whole whoopsie!  😄Then we took our group photo and dropped down to the wash below, turned right and hiked up the wash toward the pink and yellow slot.

Fire Wave
Sometimes, we do a little easy scrambling up on the south embankment where more color can be enjoyed but, today, we stayed in the slot since we were so excited about it being dry for a change.

Fire Wave toward South
At the road crossing, two cars were parked to take an easier hike to the Fire Wave. I'm really not sure that they were legally parked. Something to consider.

Pink and Yellow Slot

Back through the Kaolin Wash
We had to wait for about five cars to pass before crossing the 25 mph road this time. This wash is a Kaolin Wash.

To be specific: Kaolinite is a clay mineral, part of the group of industrial minerals with the chemical composition Al2 Si2 O5 (OH)4 It is a layered silicate mineral, with one tetrahedral sheet of silica linked through oxygen atoms to one octahedral sheet of alumina octahedra. ~Wikipedia

I'm pretty sure that this is just a fancy way of saying that the wash is incredibly colorful! So, we hiked through the wash that we had to bend sideways in (see photo below) then the Orange Section then the small slot that was our first.

Through the Narrow Wash
 At the movie set, we learned a little Chinese from another couple of visitors 😏and one of our hikers decided to climb the steps out. Another hiker went with her and we continued to finish the White Domes Loop.

Entering the Tall Slot of the White Domes Trail
In the past, the Tall Slot has been flooded when no others were. So, we rounded the corner into the slot with very tall walls and ... it was dry!!! A final "yay" and we hiked through.

Exiting the Tall Slot

Circling around White Domes
We followed our new Chinese friends to the right after exiting the slot where there is a worn trail and trail signs. The back side of White Domes is just as colorful and interesting. There is a nice walk-through arch near the end of the loop and we stopped to take photos. From there, we finished the loop by hiking through a separation of the domes and up by the road to the parking lot. All attending hikers were very impressed with the scenery today. So glad we didn't stay home!

3.1 miles (without added scrambling); 400 feet elevation gain; 2.25 hours; average moving speed 1.3 mph

More Color at White Domes

The Walk-Thru Arch

Finishing the White Domes Loop





Friday, December 20, 2019

Northshore Peak / Red Wash Loop - 12/19/19

View of Bowls of Fire and Muddy Peak from Northshore Peak Ascent

Interesting Canyon (aka Gray Wash)

Red Wash from Saddle

Target (Lowest Saddle) from Trailhead (Landmark Outcrop on Left)
 This route in the Lake Mead NRA was developed and debuted at the end of March of 2019. The small group of hikers attending at that time all agreed that the hike, although very interesting, would be better hiked in cooler weather. Therefore, eight strong hikers gathered at the mile marker 20.5 on Northshore Road and exited their cars at around 38 degrees! Perfect! Very calm wind with a high reaching to around 55 degrees. We were very comfortable. When ready, we crossed the road and found a vague trail that led directly toward a rock outcrop and a low saddle that began the ascent ridge to Northshore Peak (3296').

Starting Ridge Climb from Target Saddle
 Just for a little bit of fun, we chose to scramble directly up the ridge here where there is a lot of sticky limestone. Another route is to circle around this on the left side.

Northshore Peak Ridge from Ascent Scramble
 After gaining the scramble ridge, we continued forward until we passed the deep gulley to our right. Next, ... well ..., to each their own! Suggestion is to find and use as much of the limestone slab as possible as you either climb on the diagonal or gain the ridge and hike along a vague trail above.

Eastern View from Ascent

Rounding a False Peak
 There is also a vague trail on the diagonal which was my chosen route. Today's strong hikers spread out and found the most logical route to the peak. There are a few places where the route gets interesting when dealing with dips in the ridge but these are mostly marked with small cairns. The last dip is the most interesting. We dropped down a little bit along the dip then climbed up inside the crack to reach the crossover at the top. Here, there is a scramble up to the final climb to the peak. (See photo below as Mike demonstrates the scramble.) One by one, we arrived at the magnificent peak and wrote in the log book. We took the first of the hike's two breaks and enjoyed the colorful views all around.

Final Scramble to Peak
 Northshore Peak appears as a pointy peak from the approach on Northshore Road and this "point" is where we sat as we looked below at the tiny paved road.

View from Dip at Final Scramble
 The views we enjoyed on one side of the peak are seen two photos below.  The views on the other side of the small narrow peak were of Lake Mead and the washes included in the remaining part of the hike.

Last Hiker approaching Last Dip

Eight Hikers on Northshore Peak
The snow-capped mountains seen in the distance are the Spring Mountains. Amazing beauty! After our break, we turned to tackle the descent. The mountain is full of cliffs so we had to retrace our steps until we reached one of two washes that led all the way down to the base wash. I prefer the wash that leads down to a dry fall. Here, an easy crossover to the next wash to the left leads to the completion of the descent. Once in the base wash, the difficult part of the hike is done! Now, the loop begins to the right and into the interesting canyon which is accessed to the left at a fork between a crack as seen two photos below at the bottom right.

Southern and Western Views from Northshore Peak
 Interesting Canyon (aka Gray Wash) is just that ... interesting. We all agreed that a geology class could spend all day within its walls! Clearly, the canyon was made by movement of the earth more so than by water flow. Both are apparent.

A Few Photos from Descent to Interesting Canyon
 We followed down the wash among slabs and small loose boulders. There are water slides as well as dry falls. It is likely that a lot of water flows through this canyon and drains out into Razorback (North) Wash below.

Starting down Interesting Canyon

Washed Out Dry Pool
 After enjoying the water slides, we dropped into a flatter area of more of the interesting terrain and junctioned with the Razorback wash to turn left. This wash rises on a very gentle slope to a wash saddle then drops gently on the other side. The wash was used as a mining road back in the day and there are still places where we could see two tracks. Still, it must have been a very difficult road to navigate. By following the true wash, we hiked about 1.5 miles. There is one point where we needed to jog to the left where there is a fork. This was right before the wash saddle where we took our second break. Also, in this area, there is another route that leads up to a higher saddle that could be used for a shorter loop hike. (Chuck's Saddle)

Geology Galore
 Northshore Peak can be seen occasionally through the terrain to our left as we hiked among the hardened sand dunes covered with cryptobiotic soil.

Nearing End of Interesting Canyon
 After the wash saddle, we saw several very large boulders that had rolled down from the unique Razorback Ridge rimrock. Although we could see the large "holes" from where the rocks tumbled, it was likely a very very very long time ago that this happened.

Washed Out Cave at Junction with Razorback (North) Wash

Starting Northeast along Razorback (North) Wash
As the crow flies, the Red Wash Saddle (Kay's Saddle) is only a quarter mile from where we hiked at the closest. However, the required route of the washes provides a half mile more of hiking as we finally came to the landmark mining claim junction and turned left. This wash took a sharp turn to the left soon and we climbed up through the omnipresent catclaws until we found the particular wash to the right that leads up to the lowest saddle around. Up we went and were rewarded with the view of Red Wash as seen in the third photo of this entry. Starting down, we noticed right away that the red dirt was very close to being red mud!

Northshore Peak from Razorback (North) Wash
 We stayed in the wash as much as possible but still came to a place at the small dry falls where the red mud was really squishy. We all became much taller with added mud on our shoe soles!

Wash (formerly a Mining Road) on North side of Razorback Ridge
 Ugh! Some hikers tried using the sides of the wash bottom and it was worse! The sandier wash bottom offered the best relief.

One of Several Fallen Boulders from Razorback Ridge

Landmark Mining Claim at Junction to Kay's Saddle
 We eventually hiked out of the mud but the evidence covered our boots. Finally, we came to the wash junction to the left in flatter terrain. This is the last wash and the final leg of the loop. This wash had a couple of catclaws to deal with but was mostly clear as the walls grew higher and higher. It is darkest before the dawn ... therefore, just before we reached the dry fall wall, the wash walls were about thirty feet high. This dry fall wall flows down from the Northshore Peak base wash and ... maybe ... could be climbed ... I don't know! See fourth photo below. At any rate, just around the corner from the wall, is an escape wash. We turned to the right and climbed out of the walls.

Kay's Saddle to Red Wash
 We were out of the walls and out of the mud. Our shoes had already mostly cleaned themselves off from the squishy part of the hike.

Following the Wash Bottom
 In front of us rose the landmark rock outcropping that we used in the beginning of the hike ... from the other side.

View up to Ridge between Sides of Today's Route

Last Wash before arriving at Initial Rock Outcrop
 We followed a vague use trail (someone has been reading my blog!) to hike back to the outcrop. Then found the vague trail used for Northshore Peak from the trailhead to return across the gulley ridden terrain to the cars. This is a fun hike with views, geology, and history in an area of the Lake Mead NRA where color never stops! Fantastic group of hikers! Next time, (we liked the cooler weather but) avoid the hike right after rains! So much to see, so little time.

6.2 miles; 1450 feet elevation gain; 4.25 hours; average moving speed 1.4 mph

Last Wash Escape Route

Landmark Rock Outcrop from Escape - Trailhead at 1:00 Ahead

Finding the Vague Trail back to Trailhead