Painted Pinnacles / Baseline Mesa Loop (Valley of Fire State Park) - 3/9/24

Painted Pinnacles

Painted Pinnacles from Below

Painted Pinnacles Exit Gulley

Bighorns near Trailhead

It was a beautiful day in Valley of Fire State Park and five club members drove up to experience the Painted Pinnacles / Baseline Mesa Loop hike in full technicolor! When we arrived at 9am, the park was still quiet. Later, on this Saturday, the park would be crawling with spring breakers. In fact, take note, we counted 107 cars waiting in line at the fee booth when we exited later at 1:15pm. The early bird gets the worm! We drove up to Fire Canyon Road and turned right. Parking at the end of the road, we started out toward Silica Dome and dropped down to the left on a scenic narrow trail. There were three bighorns munching on the hillside in front of us. They are quite tame in the state park. As long as we didn't try to get close, they kept munching!

Silica Dome

Silica Dome Area

Trail out to Painted Pinnacles

Following trail down into Painted Pinnacles

Our route to get to the Pinnacles turned right onto the dirt road then headed across the desert to the right. This put us in the vicinity of another older dirt road that we had to locate. This dirt "path" led alongside the small ridge to the left. It was difficult to follow but we stayed in already-used trails. Our rule in the Valley of Fire State Park is to never create our own trails. There is a lot of cryptobiotic soil there keeping the park sand from eroding. As we hiked along, we perpendicularly ran into the trail that leads down into the floor of the Painted Pinnacles. This trail has been washed away in a few places.

Approach from Below

From Painted Pinnacles Wash

Painted Pinnacles Wash

In Painted Pinnacles Wash

However, we stayed the course and followed horse rider tracks down the hill and through a few arroyos. The trail was there to be found and eventually, we reached the Painted Pinnacles Wash ... along with the horse rider tracks. Views of the pinnacles from below with morning sunlight is really something to behold! The colors in the photos are not exaggerated! We followed the wash being careful not to step outside the sand all the way around to the far corner where a colorful exit gulley awaited. There was some scrambling here but recent rains have not washed away the route up, down and up to the pinnacles' overlook. After photos and some gawking, we turned our attention to the hill next to us. Above, Baseline Mesa beckoned.

Following wash up to gulley Exit

Exiting the Painted Pinnacles to Overlook

Painted Pinnacles Overlook View

Starting climb up to Baseline Mesa

In the past, the route up to the top of the mesa was confusing. This time, it made more sense. To climb to the top, we took a long diagonal from the overlook. This put us into easily negotiable, albeit steep, terrain. As we climbed, we took note of the increasingly beautiful views of the pinnacles and the pastel section of the state park. A few photos down, you can see what we saw when we reached the top. There's nothing else like it anywhere! From this point, our route headed to the opposite end of the long mesa. Staying within sight of the left side of the mesa puts you on the right track. As we neared the endpoint, we noted that the mesa was crumbling on the right side. We don't know if this is new but do take care in this area.

Pinnacles and Silica Dome from climb to Mesa

Scrambling up to mesa Top

Nearing the mesa Top

View from mesa Top

We found the unmarked trail down the right side and studied it to make sure it appeared stable. It looked the same as before and we carefully started down to curve around. The trail was in decent condition but still needed care to negotiate. It travels around the end of the mesa and down a very narrow ridge to an old dirt road. We did this part slowly! See the trail collage below.

Hiking the Baseline Mesa to the opposite End

Trail down far right End

Old Buena Vista Campground and Picnic Area

Archived photo of Old Buena Vista

Reaching the old campground / picnic area named Buena Vista, we took our break. The camp is in ruins now but the photo of the original site is seen to the left. As we sat, we heard construction equipment roaring as they moved dirt down at the Simplot gypsum mine below. After taking our rest, we returned up the road a short distance to a trail on the right. This trail led around and down into the second wash that drains into the Simplot Wash below. There is an interesting scramble leading down to the main wash which we each accomplished like pros! Turning left, we started up the Simplot Wash that had grass growing in the flat sandy area where tons of sand had washed down and settled with recent floods.

Following trail down into Simplot Wash

Interesting scramble into Simplot Wash

Simplot Wash "flooded" with Sand

Hefty Arch

We were so excited to realize that the flooded sand had covered almost all of the most difficult scrambles in this wash! We walked right on top a particular one that had given me wet feet once upon a time! The trip up the wash was uneventful if not pretty. The old wildlife dam was still above ground near the top. Finally, we came out at the top and had the job of finding the old dirt road that would take us back up to the trailhead. That was somewhat perplexing but we found it and continued up the hill. What a wonderful day! Great group!

Stats: 6 miles; 1000' gain; 4 hours

Upper Simplot Wash

Old ranchers' Dam

Trail leading to road out from top of Simplot Wash