Fern Canyon - 3/5/20

Fern Canyon

Top of Fern Canyon Waterfall

The Wilson Homestead Ruins

Pine Creek Trail

Named after the Giant Chain Ferns that flourish large within its walls, Fern Canyon was flowing with water as we picked our way up among the boulders. These ferns spotted the canyon making the desert appear lush.

The largest fern native to North America, giant chain fern is frequently found in moist woodlands along the West Coast. It thrives next to streams and in moist bogs. And, it doesn't tolerate frost. ~ Better Homes & Gardens
GENUS NAME Woodwardia fimbriata
LIGHT Part Sun Shade
PLANT TYPE Perennial
HEIGHT 3 to 8 feet 8 to 20 feet
WIDTH To 4 feet wide

Hiking Pine Creek Trail toward Fern Canyon

We began with fifteen hikers but one dropped out early after he realized that the hike would take longer than he thought. Yes, this hike always takes a while!

Hiking Access Trail to Fern Canyon

Parking at the Pine Creek Trailhead, we started down the main Pine Creek Trail and took a short break at the old Wilson Homestead ruins. On the way, we passed a bevy of brand new trail signs. Kudos to whoever is putting them up. (BLM?, Interpretive Society?, Friends of RR?) They are long awaited!

Wall of Fern Canyon

Stepping across Stream

From the house foundation, we headed out the trail that swings out toward the embankment on the right side of the wide canyon area. The trail took us around and down a hill then into a thicket of small trees to the right. This path took us up the embankment and rounded a large boulder. On the boulder's backside, a trail continued going into Fern Canyon which lies on the north side of Mescalito Peak (aka Little Redhead). This peak was named after:
      A spineless, dome-shaped cactus (Lophophora williamsii) native to Mexico and the southwest United States, having buttonlike tubercles that contain the hallucinogen mescaline and are traditionally used in rituals by certain Native American peoples. Also called mescal. ~ The Free Dictionary

Hugging the Wall

Regrettably, I chose to take the higher trail after the nearby fork ... just to see what happened. I will take the lower fork from here on out! We ended up dropping into the canyon too soon putting us into a brushy mess. Messy for me ... a helluva lot of fun for several of the hikers behind me!

Trail along Wall

With the water flowing, it took us a few minutes before I was able to find anything familiar. With the help of a few hikers that had taken a better route, we got back on track in due time and proceeded to scramble from here to there and there to here.

Steep Slanted Rock Climb

Jacob's Ladder Rock

Occasionally, we found cairns that would help us with decisions. But, the main rule of thumb in Fern Canyon is "if one way doesn't work to move forward, try another way!" There are sometimes two choices that work well and sometimes finding one choice is difficult! It all depends on your scrambling abilities! In fact, Fern Canyon is where I learned how to scramble way back in 2008! Between Fern Canyon, Terrace Canyon, Oak Creek Canyon and Red Cap, there is plenty there to learn the moves and gain the confidence. To begin the hike up canyon, getting to the left wall is a good start. Much of the first part of the scramble goes along this wall. Some of the water flows beautifully here.

Difficult Step Up on Smooth Surface

With the water flow, we found ourselves doing Cirque de Soleil type moves across the submerged rocks. Pique balance was required in a couple of places. Happy to say that no one got wet!

Finally on the Slab

A steep slanted rock appeared from the wall trail. Up we went. Next, we had to make the up and around climb past a very large bouldered section. There is a rabbit hole route here that is easier to use going down. We took the climb up the hill and over the difficult scramble at the top.

From Fern Canyon to Fern Canyon Overlook

Fern Canyon Waterfall Flowing

Back down in the wash, we saw the "black bear" landmark and scurried up another slanted rock. Through the brush and over rocks some more, then, finally, we found Jacob's Ladder. This is a landmark found around the hidden left side of a large boulder with built in steps to climb onto the top of the rock. Just after this, there is a climb up onto a flat smoothed and slanted sandstone rock. This is a difficult scramble due to the absence of handholds. Stronger scramblers manage but smaller scramblers can use a rabbit hole at the back of the rock. I used it for the first time and managed to gain the rock by myself. There were other times that I needed a boost by the hiker behind me. Thanks for the push!

Top of Fern Canyon Waterfall from Above

A little more brushy stuff and we found the "slab" landmark on the right side of the canyon. Up the center crack and along to the head knocker. The next scramble pointed us to the left side of the canyon again and we scrambled up the dry wash.

Round the Exposed Corner

The left wall was very familiar looking and Fern Canyon Overlook could be seen way above us. We were almost there. In fact, there appeared the waterfall! More than a trickle but less than a flow.

Dropping to Top Pool

Snack Break at Top Pool

We immediately started the vertical scramble to the top of the waterfall found on the right side. Take the second opportunity to walk around the rock next to you on the left and find your way to the pool area as seen in the photo to the left. There is some exposure here so you may want to skip this part. Be careful! Here, we took our well-deserved break. It was an amazingly beautiful day! When we finally started down, we took it slow and easy. One word of warning for new desert hikers: Always check to see where you are placing your hands before you place your hands! There may be a long slinky critter residing on the rock. It doesn't happen often but it happens!

Dismounting the Slab

Retracing our steps was a little easier than the route up even though we took a couple of different paths and rocks ... for variety.

That Smooth Slippery Surface

Plus, gravity always helps as you descend! Just be sure that you stay in control. Sprained ankles and knees can happen when the speed creeps up.

Down Climb into Marshy Muck of Dry Leaves

Down the Slant to the "Black Bear"

Occasionally, we stopped to make sure that the whole line of fourteen hikers had caught up. At one of these stops, we watched rock climbers up on the wall. I believe this wall is named "Dark Shadows" with an inverted corner. We had no problem finding the lower trail emerging from the canyon and we followed it back to round the large boulder and drop into the main wide canyon. Since it was warm here, we maintained a steady pace all the way back to the cars. Even with the confusing routes, this canyon is always a winner. It's beautiful back there!

5 miles; 850 feet elevation gain; 4.25 hours

"Hold Still! There's not much light!"

Tip-Toeing across the Rocks

Trail back to Main Pine Creek Canyon

Virlis Fisher & Bridge Spring Arches - 2/29/20

Virlis Fisher Arch

Bridge Spring Arch

Evidence of Basalt and Andesite Lava Flows and Ash Flows (Tuff of Bridge Spring)

Starting up the Trail to the East

After turning left from Eldorado Valley (US 95 south from Boulder City, NV) onto SR 165, a small quarry cut into the side of the hill to the left exposes the tuff of Bridge Spring, a regionally extensive ash-flow sheet that erupted from a caldera in the Eldorado Mountains about 15.2 million years ago. The hills extending away from the road to the left are thought to be composed of a thick section of this tuff that was deposited against the wall of the caldera. The caldera wall, and the tuff, has been tilted 90 degrees onto its side. The tuff exposures are cut by a left-lateral strike-slip fault that represents an adjustment or tear fault in the upper plate of a major detachment sheet. This unit is named after Bridge Spring, located about 2 miles north of Nelson and about 1 mile east (left) of SR 165.

The Trail Continues

Low-angle normal faults that move rocks a considerable distance are called detachment faults. They place younger rocks (commonly Tertiary volcanic rocks) in the upper plate over older rocks (usually Precambrian rocks) of the lower plate.

Starting down the Bridge Spring Wash

The tuff of Bridge Spring forms the jagged cliffs on the skyline to the east (left). The tuff dips about 45 degrees to the east and is underlain by basalt and andesite flows that were erupted between 18.5 and 15.2 million years ago.

Some Scrambling before the Bridge

Boulders after the Bridge

The quotes above were retrieved from:
 Geologic Tours in the Las Vegas Area (Expanded Edition with GPS Coordinates), Nevada Bureau of Mines and Geology Special Publication 16, University of Nevada, Reno, Mackay School of Earth Sciences, 2008, Bear Printing, Sparks, NV; pages 108 & 109.

At the trailhead 9.5 miles uphill on SR 165 from US 95, we had seventeen hikers to sign in. The trailhead parking easily accommodated around eight cars ... more, if you are able to drive up the road to the right of the parking. This is the direction we began the hike. Up the road and on out the obvious trail that led down toward the Bridge Spring Wash. At the entrance of the wash, there is a flattish double arch formation on the left. (See sixth photo.)

Good Scramble out of the Canyon

As we neared the large bridge known as Bridge Spring Arch, Nelson Arch, and/or Techatticup Arch, there were bigger boulders to go over and around. Some hikers chose to cross the bridge above. Others stayed in the wash and went under the bridge taking a lot of photos.

Following the Trail across to Next Canyon

After the bridge, some hikers climbed up the left side embankment from the top of the bridge and others took another trail above the canyon. Everyone met on the left ridge where there was a trail passing through.

Rabbit Hole Canyon (foreground) and Saddle Overlook (background right of center)

Hiking down to Rabbit Hole

Gathered, we followed the trail around and across to the next canyon descent. This is the rabbit hole canyon. We stayed to the right of center wash then dropped through a large rabbit hole that let us out in a wide valley below the Virlis Fisher Arch across the way. The valley had somewhat of a wall on the east end with an obvious bare saddle. Our next climb headed to that saddle where there was a fantastic Colorado River overlook awaiting us. Using washes and bare spots, we reached the saddle. The last of the climb was the toughest. Photos and conversation ensued. Finally, we turned to make our last approach to Virlis Fisher Arch.

Smiling Faces Everywhere!

Virlis Fisher Arch is somewhat of a jug handle arch that juts out sideways from the wall on the north side of this valley. It is approximately 15' high and 10' feet wide. (Just a guesstimate. Mabye next time, I'll measure!)

Following Chuck to Saddle Overlook

From the saddle to the arch climb, there are a couple of game trails. It is best to take the higher trail since you will want to be as high as possible (the base of the wall) when you make your final climb.

Taking in the View at Saddle Overlook

Colorado River from Saddle Overlook

Instead, we had started on the lower trail and the climb up to the base of the wall was very difficult. It is filled with steep scree no matter where you try to climb. We could not see the arch from below since it was "hiding" around a corner of the wall above. But, some of us knew where it was and when we got to the base, we chose our route and began climbing. No matter which route you choose, it is a difficult endeavor. Perhaps the easiest is the route furthest to the right of the arch. ... Or not. My choice was not an easy route! I went up just to the right of the arch and it was, at best, a 3rd class effort. Exciting. At any rate, around twelve of the seventeen hikers made it up to the arch shelf and got their photos.

Using Game Trail to cross to Virlis Fisher Arch Climb

None of us stayed too long up on the shelf. Usually, we have our break there but, this time, some of our group were waiting for us down at the big rock at the bottom of the hill. We all made our descent in our own time and descended to the "waiting rock" for our break.

On the Virlis Fisher Arch Shelf

Most of us used the traditional chute for our descent. It is located just to the left of the arch. But, there is another chute that some hikers enjoyed that is found in the fourth chute to the left.

The Waiting Rock below Arch

Descent from Arch Shelf - Zoomed in from Waiting Rock

After the break, we followed Chuck down to the flat, gravel, main valley wash. On down this wash, we got to a point where we could look back and see the full arch on the wall. Here, we turned to go up a wash on the left. After some wiggling over to the right, we found a large scramble wash to ascend. From there, we junctioned with another scramble ascent wash that forked to the right. This wash passed Heart Cave and Frown Cave, very large openings on the walls up to the right. We gathered again at the top of this wash and realized that we were standing on the trail that Chris and Guy used way back in the day! But, Chuck had other plans.

Hiking down to Center Wash from Waiting Rock

The weather forecast had promised bad wind gusts coming in around noon so we were trying to finish the hike without dilly dallying. (My legs can attest to this as I write the next day!)

Climbing out of Center Wash

Therefore, Chuck found a very interesting wash that took us from the west side of this area to the east side so we could connect with the shorter route back to the cars.

Rock Lichen, Natural Bridge, Caves and Cactus Wren Nest in Cholla

Scramble Canyon

The group got separated as we each found interesting ways to get back to the trailhead. (One group found a very interesting way down the side of the wall to the road!!) Some followed the regular trail and others found the old trail that swings out to the east a little. I know the leaders always feel that they lose a little control when this stuff happens but, really, it's just us having a little bit of last ditch fun! And, today, seventeen hikers had bunches of fun in a beautiful location before the wind kicked in! Thanks Chuck and Mike!

4.6 miles; 1150 feet elevation gain; 3.75 hours

Shoulder above Scramble Canyon

Crossover Wash

On Trail back to Cars