Saturday, March 4, 2023

Zabriskie Loop (Death Valley NP) - 3/2/23

Manly Beacon from Golden Canyon

Red Cathedral from Golden Canyon

Telescope Peak (far L) and the Panamint Range from Zabriskie Loop Trailhead

Beautiful start of the Zabriskie Loop Hike
This hike begins at Zabriskie Point off of California SR 190. Seventeen hikers made their way there from Las Vegas and Henderson, Nevada in a 2-2.5 hour drive. We were all amazed at the snow covered mountains we passed on our way down SR 190 passing into the Death Valley National Park. It is truly an odd year for weather! We also watched the temperature gauge waiting and waiting for the warmer temps to appear. It wasn't until we were almost to the trailhead that the temps reached the promised 52° mark. We pulled into the Zabriskie Point parking lot just before 9am and waited for everyone to arrive. Did you know that Zabriskie Point is named for a movie that was partially filmed here in 1970? It was panned by most critics but led a second life as a counter culture success! Hmm. But the cinematography was acclaimed along with the direction and musical score. During past hikes here, we have seen commercials and photo shoots being done at this location, as well.

Gower Gulch

Rita heads into the Gower Gulch Narrows

A little bit of Scrambling

Ralph and Bruce emerge from the Narrows
Zabriskie Point is punctuated by Manly Beacon; a vertical triangular rock whose point rises roughly 200' above its base where we were hiking. The pluvial lake that runs through Death Valley also holds the name of Manly. William L. Manly has a very interesting and heroic life story and deserves the honors. 
     William Lewis Manly (April 6, 1820 – February 5, 1903) was an American pioneer of the mid-19th century. He was first a fur hunter, a guide of westward bound caravans, a seeker of gold, and then a farmer and writer in his later years.
     In 1849, at the age of twenty-nine, Manly joined the thousands of American Forty-niners traveling to California to participate in the Gold Rush. He began traveling overland from Wisconsin.
     South of present-day Provo, Utah, Manly joined other Forty-niners traveling to southern California. In December, these pioneers became lost in the Great Basin Desert, and entered Death Valley having followed an inaccurate map for three weeks. Their food supplies were almost exhausted, and the oxen pulling their wagons were dying of starvation. Manly and his associate John Haney Rogers trekked 250 miles on foot across the Mojave Desert to Rancho San Fernando near Los Angeles, California to scout an evacuation route for the families trapped in Death Valley. There, they procured food and horses from Mexican villagers and were able to save their party by leading them to Rancho San Francisco.*
*~Wikipedia

Picturesque Dry Fall Area at the bottom of Gower Gulch

Breezy Crossover

Snack Break at the Golden Canyon Trailhead

Seventeen Hikers starting up Golden Canyon
The views on this day were outstanding. The whole Panamint Range was covered with snow caps. In the middle of this range is the highest point that is called Telescope Peak. It rises up to 11, 331', the highest point in Death Valley. It also rises almost directly above Badwater Basin that has an elevation of -282'. We started the hike on a small hill that enabled us to see this grand view. The mining road we were on, led us down to Gower Gulch where we turned right and headed down toward the basin and what was, several times in ancient history, Manly Lake. The hikers were strong and we made quick time all day. We passed the white arroyos, the white peaks with brown crusted tops, and an adit to one of the mines in this area. 

Rita and Cheryl hike up the Golden Canyon mining Road

Hiking toward the Red Cathedral

Climbing up through the Rough Slot to Red Cathedral

Rita climbs up to Overlook
Next, we entered the narrows of Gower Gulch. There is a little bit of scrambling here that was easily done by the hikers this morning. Then we came to a screeching halt as the wash suddenly disappeared at a very high cliff dry fall. The trail sneakily turns up to the right and leads along the cliff next to the wash continuation that runs out toward dry Manly Lake. Photos were taken here and we entered the windy side of the hike. Until then, we were fairly sheltered from the harsh wind. But out in the "flats," as Mike likes to call them, the wind was strong and chilly. We hiked as fast as we could over to the Golden Canyon Trailhead parking lot where there was a full house of cars. We sat out of the wind and took our break. While we sat, the remaining seven hikers caught up with us after having been 25 minutes late for the start of the hike. Yep. It is longer than 2 hours from Henderson! We all found that out.

Trail down Ridge from Overlook

Seventeen Hikers below Manly Beacon

Hiking up the Trail to Manly Beacon's Base

View back from Trail
So, after the break, we all headed up Golden Canyon toward the Red Cathedral, a red sandstone wall that rises as a backdrop to the white arroyos. At the signed junction, we hiked up to the cathedral cliffs for a beautiful view. There were a few different routes taken on the way back to the junction where the group turned left to hike up to the base of Manly Beacon. The climb here is kind of challenging but the views from this section of the trail are like nothing you've ever seen before! All seventeen hikers made it up the hill taking several photos from the skinny trail then descended the other side into the badlands. They call this next section the Badlands Loop.

Arroyos of the Badlands Loop

Dropping down from the Manly Beacon Base

Badlands Loop view of Manly Beacon

Enjoying views of Beacon from Badlands Loop
If you watch the trail, you will be able to follow those that hiked before you. In other words, don't drift over to the right into the shallow wash. This route will take you back into Gower Gulch. Stay to the left when offered a choice and the trail will take you up and over the arroyos. Soon, you will be climbing up and up. Take in the incredible views of Manly Beacon and Red Cathedral. Then follow the very old mining road around the ridge tops and down to the original Gower Gulch turn. This time, turn left and start your return back to the trailhead. This is another good climb. It was a great day ... but, then, any day with a bunch of good friends is a good day!

Stats: 7.2 miles; 1350' gain; 3.5 hours

Manly Beacon and Red Cathedral

Seventeen Hikers at the Badlands Loop Overlook

Finishing the Loop at Gower Gulch and Mine Road





3 comments:

Kay Blackwell said...

The kaleidoscope of colors pleasantly assaults your senses. Good stuff.
Mike

Kay Blackwell said...

I concur. 🙂
Rita

Kay Blackwell said...

Hi we just got back from St George. Swell blog, Kay! We liked reading about Mr. Manly. Amazing!! Didn’t know the dry lake was named Manly, too. Great photos and a history lesson - what’s not to love?!
Cheryl